The End of The World

If you ever go to Ushuaia, Argentina, the most southern city at the tip of of South America, make sure you have a window seat. Its the time you will drop your jaw. In my case, I could taste the condensation on my mini glass, I was so glued to the view. Its like a free helicoptor tour before you ever set foot.

The pilot notifies us of our 6 degree celsius temperature - which doesnt faze me - I dont even have a hat or gloves packed. The annoying heat sensor camera greets me in this bodunk airport. Once I am cleared of the swine flu, I sway towards the front of the turnstile looking for my bag - of course as in all nowhere towns - 0nly one baggage depot.

I break out my latin american spanish pocket book and start to practice lines for the taxi. I have a feeling english will be quite a luxury in this location. I fail with the pronounciation and show him what I had written down for my hostel. He immediately comprehends - and off we go! Opening the window to breath in that fresh mountain air, I decide not to take out the camera just yet and enjoy for myself. The snowfilled mountains and incredible lakes flowing into channels is a site unto itself. Pictures are not going to do this place justice.

I check in with my Spanglish and immediately start planning. The receptionist recommends I get in a cab immediately and head up to the Martial Glacier. It is 2pm and the Glaciar park closes at 5pm. Lets get this done. Cab indicates I should turn around and look out the back glass as he ascends in zigzags up the muddy roads. Behind me is the full Andes mountain horizon with the Beagle Channel flowing in front of them.

20 pesos / 5 dollars to the top and I notice a ski mountain with tons of tweens and snowboards. Is this it? No clue. As I traverse the parking lot, I notice a random little tea house tucked into the mountainside below. 

Im starving - a bit of free time - why not? Along the wooden bridges, I open the small door to the tea house as the bells hanging start ringing. The cottage is surrounding by windows showing the still vista I saw from the cab. Awesome. Tea - Sandwich and an english speaking waitress make for a terrific lunch. Now where is this glacier?

I trek up to the ticket office - spanglish my way to the purchase of a chairlift ticket to the base of the glacier.  Ticket 30 pesos - 7 dollars. The lift is a bit cold with the wind - snapping pictures, Im expecting a bit of a trek after the lift to the actual base of the glacier. First time I have ever jumped off a lift without skis - interesting. I follow the trail for trekkers through the trees, blazing the ice and snow as I climb. Im the only one doing this which makes it exciting and chilling at the same time. Im still good on time, but I check my watch so I can time how long it will be to get back. That lift stops at 430pm. Im wearing sneakers since I rushed out of the hostel - who knew I would be trekking? The ice is dangerous but the glacier is up ahead.

I think the guy at the ticket office was saying it will look like a mountain as the glacier is under the snow and is only visible in the summer. No wonder why I am the only one doing this trek. I reach the clearing and the wind takes a strong gust and rips it in my direction. I grab onto a tree to hold myself in place. Not easy. The clearing has no protection and the massive mountain glacier is encapsulating. I take out my camera to shoot a video. As I push record, the wind whips another insane gust and I duck low to hold my position. The video is awesome. (on youtube) I stand firm and switch my breath between the view below of the andes and the channel - then back to the mountain/glacier and back again. Its an awesome moment.

A few prayers later, I decide to take the journey back as darkness looms and so does that chair lift deadline. This location by the way has less sunlight since it is only 5 hours by boat from Antartica - that means the sun doesnt even rise here until 10am. Great for the night owls.

Back at the hostel, I realize the little sleep, and take a long nap til about 83opm. Since restaurants dont open in argentina til then, it was fine. I taxi to the downtown. Nice! Kinda like a park city, Utah. Less restaurants, less bars, less stores but nice. I stroll the streets, pop in to a few local bars - dont know anyone - dont know spanish - didnt stick around. The strolling was cool. I stumble upon a meat place. The only other option here is a fish place. After a grand meal, I walk around the closed shops breathing in the phenomenal air. I advance on a street corner and notice to the right, that the entire street has become a snowboarding park. They built a full one on an actual street - totally odd. And next to it is an Irish pub - packed!

After taking pictures, I decide to get in the taxi back to my hostel so I can write my blog and get to bed - huge day tomorrow...

Need I Say More

A Special Yoga Class - Three Hours in Portuguese - Need I Say More

"You Must Breath in the Nature"

Pedra Da Gavea

You have no idea! This is the largest rock formation on earth and it is just under 1,000 meters to the summit - way higher than sugarloaf mountain. I sort of get an inclination of how difficult this was going to be when I was notified of Rock Climbing portions. Marcello convinces me to stick with my sneakers over my hiking boots and to bring a huge bottle of water.

9am wake up - 3pm start. Can I say nothing reminds me of my brother more than Marcello. Granted we did go up SugarLoaf mountain that morning by cable car - but still. Oh and Marcello asked two danish girls - who just arrived into rio and we met on the top of Sugarloaf - to join us on this hike - this will be important later in the blog as they had no idea what they were saying yes to.

We arrive at the base of the monolith and park the cars. A couple who was joining us decided to back out right then and there. Pedro knew the girl and described the climb. She realized it wasnt for her. Two down.

We set out - check in at the bottom with a park ranger - write our names down in case we never make it back. He shouts concerns in portuguese and Marcello/Pedro respond. The hike begins.

Im excited - last significant hike was probably 12 years ago in New Hampshire - but I start to remember a small hike at my brother engagement weekend in upstate NY. Images of sweat and hard breathing with a few "have to stop" moments. Uh oh, this could be a problem. We hit a few challenging passes, some with massive roots to climb like a ladder. As a joke, I pop out "are we there yet?" everyone nervously laughs.

A little exercise starts to kick in and the breathing gets a bit faster. Marcello explains to breath totally through the nose - I try - but then go back to my traditional heavy mouth breathing. "You must breath in the Nature" Marcello points out. Im ready to push him off the rocks. Huffing and Puffing starts to begin and I am the only one of the group that you can hear the patterns. As the sweat starts to sting my eyes, I start plunging down the water. This is going to be rough.

We reach the rock climbing portion of the hike and Marcello goes first. I have been doing a bit of climbing at my gym in Astoria so I actually feel the excitement of doing this for real. No ropes is a bit concerning, but what the hell. Some strong pulls and weird foot stands, I eventually make it to the top of this landing. But the danish girls are still below. They are considering heading back. A bit of Marcello charm and they make for an attempt. Daniel - tall artist with cool hair - seems to be the more experienced of our group and helps the girls along this difficult passe.

Only one third of the way up. My shirt and now shorts are soaked in sweat, but the views are starting to get addicting. Lets go some more! Right about this time, we see this enormous peak rock that has indentations making it look like an angry old man. Pedro points to it (picture below) and says thats where we are headed. I truly assume he is joking. There is no way to reach that, its all rock - we cant climb that without ropes. He points to the little bit of greens that strike up the middle and says we will go through that way. "Are you insane?" The view from where we were (halfway point) was nice so I'm thinking we take pics and go down from here. Nope!

Don't ask me how but we do continue on. One of the danish girls begins to cry. She seems to be holding it in from time to time. The other is up ahead with the group. I'm constantly at the rear. There is no question, I am the most out of shape of the group, sweating the most, stopping the most, drinking the most and at times feeling that I will pass out. This is a tough hike, toughest I have ever been on. A bit more than I anticipated.

As we near 3 quarters, I come into a comfortability with my body - im going to get to the top. We reach a rather tall grass area near the peak and Marcello stops us all. He wants us to run the rest of the way because once we reach the top there will be a grassy field that we can pave through to the end of the rock ledge. He takes off, we all follow and as I come upon the large peak, my eyes reveal Rio - WOW! Totally incredible. The pictures say it all. Breathtaking and well worth the intensity.








We are all enjoying the views and pictures as we hit this peak right before sunset. How awesome to be lucky enough to see the sunset over Rio from the highest location. How come nobody else is up here. This is a public park - its a beautiful day - I know its not high season, but so what? And then it dawns on me when Marcello gives us the Chevy Chase - ok looks good - lets go!. Lets go!!??? But we just got here?
















You got to be kidding me? The realization starts to hit HARD! Just above the beautiful Rio landscape is the most beautiful sunset. I said SUNSET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The group is starting to run. What was Marcello thinking? no time to ask. All I can think about is making it to the rock climbing bit before dark. How on earth are we going to do that if its pitch black? Let alone get down the rest of the mountain!

Danish girl crying, Im now in front booking it - screw these guys. Every step I take on a branch, sand, mud or whatever feels like an ankle twist. Going down is dangerous enough, but with nightvision, its a whole nuther story. And Im not even sure if my nightvision works. As the sun is half way through the horizon, we make it to the rock climbing portion. Safely we transport all parties down. I became the rock climbing expert and helped the assembly line down.
Now the sun is gone and we have a bit of remnance light helping. We are running and leaping over logs and across terrain. My knees are pounding, my ankles are definitely strained and now Im thinking ahead to the dark. There is without a doubt going to be darkness for half this hike down. The trees are covering the moonlight and its super dangerous when Marcello takes out his blackberry as a flashlight. I have a cell phone as well and Daniel has a lighter. We scatter throughout the group so there is a portion of light for everyone. Im a bit ahead of the group when I fall flat on my face. OWWWWWWWWWWW!!!

I stand up quickly, wipe off the mud when the group catches up. I pretend like nothing happened as they cant see me anyway lol. As I mozy backwards to the middle of the group I grab onto a fallen tree for stability. Total mistake. I immediately drop holding my hand. (MAJOR CURSE WORD!) I have been bitten. No clue by what and the group needs to continue on so I wince and move forward. You can just imagine all the questions I was asking Pedro for about 20 minutes as we near the last third. It was hurting bad.
















We did see a terrantula on the way up crossing the rocks, maybe that was it. I didnt care, getting off the mountain was the key - not like Im going to be airlifted right now.

Daniel and I decide to leave the group and zip ahead, we are both tired of the hike and want to see the end. We start moving quickly until we eventually hit a cobblestone road and we see the park ranger station ahead with a light on! YES! No ranger there though. What If we never made it down? These guys dont give a rats...

The rest of the group finds us there relieving ourselves. Back in the cars - got to get to the showers, eat, pack and say goodbye to everyone - no sleep - drive to the airport at 5am.

Sao Paolo here I come!

PS Still have to give you a past blog on the favellas and I just got a picture uploaded of me doing yoga so I have to get that up as well - so two small blogs before Sao Paolo.

Hairy Beast takes the Beach

A beautiful beach day, I decide to join Marcello and his local friends at POSTO 9 in Ipanema Beach - this is the top location for all the young people and since it is a tuesday - most live at home with no jobs - and it is a glorious sunny day after three days of NYC weather. I order my chair for 3 reales and have it set up by his group of english speaking friends. No one is fat or hairy here.

I chat it up with a few of his friends and then decide to go for a walk on my own down the beach. About 5 minutes along, a random guy shouts at me. Your in Rio - take off your shirt! I was shocked by the english and then by the randomness. Whats wrong with this dude - telling me what I should do. Then I start to look around. I couldnt find a single person wearing a shirt at all - not even one. Just my moronic self waltzing along in a yellow t-shirt and cargo shirts while the rest are in strings (men and women).

Embarassed, I walk back to my crowd to regroup. My shirt comes off and so does my cargo shorts. I borrow a pair of board shorts from Marcellos friend Lao and I trot down to the ocean - 10 days in Rio and I havent been in. Mostly because I dont go in, but I was using the excuse warned to me by everyone in Rio. Be careful of the undertow - its intense. Knowing me, I have trouble with the undertow in a stationary pool - but im up for the challenge - hairy body and all.

Feet dip in - cold! (not really) I gradually torture myself to the family jewels and WHACK! A massive wave takes me out. Struggling for air with body flailing, I stand up choking. The undertow is insane with just the whitewater! I think Im going back up just a bit. Meanwhile there are surfers whiping by on awesome waves at astronomical speeds. I squat down for a bathroom break before returning to shore.

The sun is setting as Marcello and I walk all the way to the end of Ipanema along the wave lines. I pay close attention to my footprints in the sand to see how my arch is looking. Big day tomorrow - massive hike up the largest monolith in the world. Arch needs to be healthy.

Rio is a marvelous place because has the similarities of three US states. Miami for its beaches and nightlife, NYC for its restaurants and lively 24 hour streetlife, and New Hampshire for its mountains, forests, and natural inhabitants. I think it might be up there as one of the great places to live if you know portuguese but that is to be determined as I know 10 words and maybe three or four expressions.

Marcello and I stop at a kiosk (hundreds of them) and grab an ACAI (which is like a smoothie with granola and the Acai Berries) and a Peru da Minas which is Turkey and cheese. You literally double park, get out, order at a counter, eat in less than 10 minutes and back in the car to the next plan. Cheap, fast and good!

We drive over to the Che Legarto hostel where I spent most of my time in Rio and picked up my bags as I exchanged goodbyes with the wonderful people I got to meet. I was off to Marcellos for the last two nights. Staying at marcellos house was interesting. Its a fully loaded massive apartment with a ton of bedrooms and would be well into the millions in NYC, but they dont have a dryer for clothes and they heat their showers by igniting a gas burner, similar to what we do with our barbecues! It has a art cultural feel, like an apartment in paris, probably because the father is an Art Dealer and the mother works for Sothebys.

My massive guest room was amazing after all the hostel living - but it was the hot shower that created the orgasmic feeling of instant health.

sleepy sleep for eight hours ahhhh...

Handgliding Pictures

Pre flight preparations

a mountain of excitement

flight over mansions

Flight over mountains

Flight over beach

Flight over ocean no hands

Over the ocean straight ahead

Rips the straps and so Im dangling before landing

Landed and Alive - what a rush!

If You Stop We Will Die

Driving up a most narrow road with tree branches pounding the car as the driver continues beeping in order to notify downhill drivers of our presence, I start to pray. Am I really going to do this? We reach the summit and prepare ourselves - a bit crash course - which can be summed up with six words IF YOU STOP WE WILL DIE...

I take his words into serious consideration and start focusing really hard. I grab onto my guides straps and walk onto the platform. Stomach in knots - no real preparation time before he yells GO!

I sprint as hard as I can eyes completely on the horizon - if you look down you may stop - all of a sudden there is no more platform left and the massive green and white wings take over as we cut through the clouds over the entire city of RIO. The favella that I visited this morning holding over 200,000 people was on my left, beaches below, ocean in front, rainforest to my right and the wind is whizzing by at astronomical forces. I perch my arms out like a bird. We are so high, I can see helicopters and birds below. When was the last time you were on top of the birds flying - seeing their wings from above.

Its an incredible feeling and breathing in the air as we turn hard toward the ocean. Denario describes to me all that I can see including the mansions on the cliffs with their gynormous pools. Im starting to get a little fear of heights. All the straps hooked into me are really pulling and it feels that at any moment, someone is going to cut the cords. 15 minutes later he notifies me that we will be landing. Of course, there is a sudden extreme speed up directly toward the beach sand shores. Where are the brakes? Whistling in for our landing the sand seems to be moving faster than the landing strip at an airport. All of a sudden, he pulls out my straps and my feet go dangling as we come to a complete stop with my feet planted in the sand. WOW! Can we please do it again!

Handgliding over Rio - how many people can say that! I wanted to do this on my birthday but choosing a day with the right wind and sun conditions makes it all the worth waiting.

Pics of me actually in the air are on a disk that I bought but of course no disk option in the internet cafe. I will post it as soon as I can!

Tomorrows post: Walking in the Favellas with Machettes - this happened before handgliding, but I had to skip to the juice!

Party like its 1999

One of the biggest events in Rio and Brazil for that matter is their Football (soccer). And since Rios got one of the biggest stadiums - why not go to a game? Flamengo vs Internacional was the match and I went with a tour. Some random Brazillian guy in a green shirt screaming songs on the bus as we roll into the stadium parking lot high on Caprihnas (brazillian drink - very popular). They have a lot to live up to since I am a Penn Stater and we have one of the largest stadiums in the entire USA with some of the loudest fans in the world.

Entering the empty stadium and trailing down to our seats, we are only 5 rows from the 50 yard line. Great seats! I guess we will wait til it fills in with the fans. Hunger pursues and I decided to walk up to the food stands. Laughing hard as I try to order a cold packaged hot dog and non-alcoholic beer (thats all they had). The selection is hilarious. Only other option was a packaged chicken salad sandwich - the packaged sandwiches are huge here. At least the prices arent jacked, but boy do I wish I was at Yankee Stadium right now. Some homeless guy tries to get my reales as I find my seat.

I sit next to a New Yorker and we chat a bit - I buy a headband (1reales) - the stadium never fills up. Apparently Brazil played in the daytime vs Italy and everyone stayed home to watch that, plus it was Sunday and Sunday dinner is a big thing here as the brazillian people are a family oriented species. So the short version - it wasnt loud - it wasnt exciting and I was bored to the point of wanting to leave. What makes it worse! They dont have a timeclock anywhere. You never know how much time is left in the half or game for that matter. So ridiculous. Flamengo won (4-0) - apparently the more popular team. We Are! Penn State!

From there Pedro picks me up to bring me to a Favella Funk Party! Odd event! It is a massive stage and air conditioned dark room filled with extremely poor people partying like its 1999. Dont even bother trying to get a drink at the bar - they had one bar tender and probably close to 3,000 people in the place. It was interesting how happy everyone was - its just a way of life, but at the end of the party - everyone goes back to their Favellas - which is no way to live - its just horrible. I didnt bring my camera for obvious reasons here.

Days seem to meld together when you are on Rio Time - things dont really happen til about 2pm. So a typical day here is 2pm til 6am and back again. At least if you hang with Pedro and Marcello. Its an interesting culture, different from NYC as even the bands at the bars and clubs are still going til the early morning. Anyway, this schedule brought upon a cold for me that I am battling with ACAI, GRAVIOLA and my regimen of vitamins. I have kept it from getting out of control.

I had grand plans for my birthday - so excited to make it happen - but due to unforseen events it was not possible. Instead those plans have been moved to Friday. The secret continues. Instead, Pedro and Marcello take me to a beautiful house on a cliff overlooking the ocean (marcellos father bought this house in 1971 probably for peanuts, considering the cost now is around 8 million reales). I have been to some beautiful places in the world and even some wonderful houses overlooking oceans - but no picture will bring you to how I felt when I walked out to the great expanse of the entire ocean surround the cliff of this house. It is one of the most breathtaking places. I took tons of pictures and spent a lot of time just sitting on the many decks. Every bedroom in the house is overlooking the ocean but from a height the equivalent of a mountain. It was the perfect relaxing atmosphere to spend the daytime of my birthday.

A pasta meal was prepared for a late lunch followed by a deep nap. This location is a part of Pedro and Marcellos plans for their future entreprenuership. Maybe someday I will be able to rent it out for a party - but for now - Im here on my birthday and I will take in the views right now!

It was quite nice when Pedro and Marcello showed up for the night, with a gift for me - Johnny Walker Red - it was such a nice thought and the beginning of the second half of my birthday. It was an awesome low key samba band at a club called MELT. After intense negotiations with the door charge lady - dropped 40 reales to 20 reales so that we can get in, we waltz up the stairs just in time for the start of the band. I am a huge fan of brazillian music because of the brass. Trumpet, Sax and Trombone wailing away - and me dancing away. Of course in the front - of course terrible moves - but loads of fun. Hand slapping with the band members and sweating through my t-shirt, I find myself really enjoying myself. I didnt even have one drink the whole night. I gave Pedro and Marcello hugs thanking them for such a great time.

A little late night eat followed by 6 flights of stairs to my room - I slept like a baby with a runny nose.

Jesus Christ, Captain Morgan and The Festival of June

Christ the Redeemer or Cristo Redentor is quite an attraction here and a pretty impressive monument to Jesus Christ. Taxi to the base - Tram to the top - pictures - prayer - tram down - taxi back. It was a beautiful day and the entire view of Rio from the top is at times breathtaking. I felt privileged to get the opportunity to be there.

The rest of that day, I spent at the beach which is as advertised - packed with bikinis on women and MEN. Great waves - intense surfers and boogie boarders - the undertow is only possible for the strong. I rented a chair for 3 reales, opened my book The Celestine Vision and relaxed. A few of the hostel inhabitants were with me and we conversed in intelligent conversations about everything - one was a PHD - looked just like Captain Morgan.

One annoying thing about the Rio beaches is you will feel like you are at a Yankee game. There are thousands of vendors selling everything from bras to pineapples. From Sunglasses to ACAI. And they are agressively in your face. But, I did need sunglasses! I called the Jamaican looking dude over and the negotiation begins. EVERYTHING HERE is a negotiation lol. They start at 30 reales, I tell them I only have 12 on me. Then it drops to 25. I tell him I only have 12. He drops it to 20. I show him I only have 12. He sticks hard, must be his lowest. I borrow eight from Captain Morgan and the sale ends at 20 reales.

I think of my brother as the surfers begin to take long beautiful waves down the coast. The sun beats hard through the lotions. Hunger sets in and off with Captain Morgan to the Sushi place here (which by the way, if they recreated this one in NYC, those investors would be retiring within 2 years. First off, its phenomenal and second the way they prepare it with these random hand rolled conelike structures - just WOW!)

I say goodbye to my new friend - it always feels like forever. You feel lonely a lot on a trip like this because you are always making new friends and then leaving them. But its so hard to detach everytime. I hope this skill is a positive one that I am developing because right now I don't like it. Just being in the new hostel today as I write this is hard as I am lonely. Its smaller, less interaction. Thank God for Marcello!

I had to get back to the mango tree to check out and meet my friend who is brazillian and lives in Rio (connected through friend of my brothers fiance). Marcello - close to impossible to describe. Maybe best to say it as quiet, unassuming, 25 year old entreprenuer on Crack? He has just a tad of ADD:). From the moment I meet him we are off. Somehow we are dropping off Sothebys packages to gatehouses with hazards on in between our errands of getting me a local cell phone, eating ACAI with granola and some pastries at the same time as getting him ready to go on a trip by plane somewhere else in brazil. Conversations of The Power of Now and Celestine Prophecy - BROUGHT UP BY HIM! made me feel like we were supposed to meet.

Somehow we make end up in a class of Yoga at 7pm. If you didnt read correctly, YOGA! First off, I have never done yoga and probably because my body clearly isnt for it. Second, the instructor is speaking portuguese - Come on here! I grab a mat, some blocks and start to follow. HOLY (insert). Not only is it hard, sweating ensues and so does this random breathing. They always talk about the spiritual aspect and breathing but now I fully understand what this is all about. Just describe Yoga as breathing and we will get it. You are placed into positions that are extremely difficult - your muscles never have been in the situation so it feels like your whole body is lifting weights. The only way to stay in these positions is in the heavy breathing focus that starts to commence because you have no choice. What a workout! Shower in the gym (some high class BodyTech). Marcello hands me off to his friend and business partner Pedro and we dont see him again, crack is an understatement.

Pedro and I bounce on some errands of his to eventually pass along to me that we are going to the big Festival de Junho. As he casually mentions 110 reales entrance fee, I spit up my Coca Cola Zero (huge over here). I try to recover as he says, is that okay? I find a happy medium between, are you nuts? and you only live once.

How annoying, Im on the computer here in the hostel and the people who own the place are smoking right here. Im coughing - GET THE HINT!

Anyway, pre-gaming here is huge and we go to a liquor store to buy Black Label. A stop at Pedros parents place for a few things (Marcello and Pedro are coming from upper-middle class of rio so you should see the apartments overlooking the oceans). We make it to the base of Sugar Loaf where the streets are massed with people. Feels like a Penn State Tailgate but at night. Tons of 20's and 30's drinking in the street before getting in a huge cable car to take them up to the first level of Sugar Loaf - where the party is overlooking the Rio Lights. You can see the fully lighted Cristo across the whole lake. It is worth every cent of 50 dollars, especially since I didnt pay anything to drink. Pre-gaming!

Unfortunately the party ends at sunrise and you feel like you are in a casino - never know what time it is. I was quite shocked when I saw my watch. As great of a time it was, waking up in the hostel at 230pm and realizing you had a double cheesburger of drunk food at the random dohickey shack - nothing can be more maddening. I am quite happy I didnt drink anything at the actual party - no headache!

Todays plan is to meet up with Pedro and give him the list of the things I want to accomplish before I leave Rio. One of them is going to blow everyone reading this blog away - well that is - if you know me well...

PS - The esophagus problem went away the moment I stopped the malaria medication - Thank you Christina (my cousin) who figured out it was the side effect of the drug! Im out of the amazon so I decided to just stop.

43 Hours Without Sleep Thanks to The Triathletes

Walking into The Mango Tree Hostel, I was completely exhausted. No sleep on the plane as they built the TAM airlines for small brazillians without legs. Some dude at the front desk at 630am (730am) tried to explain to me that I couldnt check in. So I toured around to get a sense of the place and entered a garden patio where breakfast was being served.

Immediately, I bump into three extremely nice TRIATHLETES from New York City. James - Asian Car Dealership Owner, Westchester native with a Nokia addiction. Dave - congenial, married investment banker, who loves his board shorts. Mary Margaret - took off for a year to travel the world - she became the best tour guide for us with her past experience and total language proficiency. Interestingly, they are going to do a 7500m jog (about 5 miles) around the lake and ask me to come along.

I change fast and off we go to the massive lake that is surrounded by a running track. As we start our jog (triathletes run) I remember that I havent slept and certainly havent jogged in maybe 3 months. UH OH! The pace is tough. I handle it for about 2 miles and then start to drop back - Dave was nice enough to drop back with me. I ask him questions about his life, getting to know him, and hoping he will be destracted that the pace keeps slowing lol.

About a mile more I know Im in trouble and I tell him to go ahead. Breathing heavy, weird heart palps, lightheaded and with the sun beating hard, im sweating profusely. I take the pace down to a halting jog. As I near the finish line, I notice James videotaping. I think they caught on to how funny it is to see me struggle.

Of course we werent done - push ups - sit ups - tricep dips for three sets. At this point I think WATER! James comes up with the idea of doing some sprints for 50 meters. I can´t not partake. I approach the start line. I better beat Mary. On your marks, get set, GO! I book it as hard as I possibly can for 50 meters and find myself the winner! What the hell? I mean, seriously. James is impressed. He wants another go. Didnt we just run 5 miles. I cant do this again! On your marks, get set, GO! If only someone were videotaping my arms flailing, legs pounding and facial contortions. James and I tied, I might of had him, but I did jog 5 miles.

Back to the Hostel with my new friends to shower and continue Mary´s phenomenal plan to Santa Theresa for lunch via Trolley Car. Words cant describe the fear running through my veins when I was HANGING off the Trolley, which apparently is normal when the car is full. Moving past cliffs and avoiding telephone polls, concrete walls and cars - the video is priceless.

My first meal in Rio at the best lunch place in Santa Theresa. PORK! beans, rice, kale, farina and beer. It was far superior to manaus and I havent had a stomach pain since. HALLELUAH! From lunch we found our way to a Ferry to take us across the way to another random town where we decided to watch the sunset behind the clouds. Rio is known for their sunsets and this one was no small feat.

Chatting it up Dave, James and Mary Margaret along the day, I realize how awesome it is to learn about new people at the same time as being able to speak english. We eventually find out way to dinner - I order a salad! They have salad! It was probably the best tasting salad in my life just because I get to have salad! The food is just picking up its quality at every moment. Continuing Mary Margarets expertise, she doesnt disappoint as we end up in a locale where there are people in the streets drinking around a square of five or six bars. We bump into Roman (tall guy from hostel, speaks languages) and continue chatting until I start passing out. Its 130am when I find myself laying on a top bunk, still in my day clothes fading away - 43 hours without sleep. The triathletes kicked my butt but it was worth all the suffering. Oh man, how sore am I going to be tomorrow? (holy cow, they have questions marks here?)

??????????????????yeee hawww???????????????????

PS. Can you PS on a blog? Well, anyway, when I first arrived to the hostel, I was told that two people already had things stolen. One girl had her purse snatched right in front of her at the beat and another dude was held up for his camera. Very comforting...

Goodbye to the Amazon - Hello to the Beaches

Im feeling a bit sad leaving the place I have called home for almost 3 weeks. As much as I struggled, I also became attached. Probably to the memories of the life changing events which will stay with me forever. Its not easy doing such things on your own - venturing out of your usual bubble and pushing your human self to limits you may of never known. It creates a sort of spiritual upheavel and definitely some unusual emotion. But that comes with the territory of taking on a trip as courageous as this.

I have learned so much and met so many. My hats off to Jesse, Steve, Chip, Isabelle, Franciney, The Missionary Girls, The Beautiful Children, Giancarlo, English, Nestor, The Amazon Guru, The Bishop, Jahud Said and especially Father Lorenzo who without, this portion of the trip would not be possible. His generosity will not go unnoticed. Thank you all.

Rio De Janiero is the next stop as I embark on a 130am flight where I will sleep and start my Thursday June 18th in a new brazillian city. This 2nd most dangerous location in Brazil will bring my guard back up with locks, hidden fanny belts, hawk eyes and protruding chest with angry walk. There are major famous sites to see including Christ The Redeemer which has been named a recent Wonder of the World. Im looking forward to improvements in food quality, beachfront, rainforests, music culture (birthplace of Samba), new characters, less sweating, snorkeling and nightlife.

As I type here for the last time with no question mark or quotation keys on the board, I notice ten things I am taking with me...

1. Poison Sumac, Ivy or Oak on my feet and ankles
2. Ringworm under my arms
3. Burning damage in the esophagus
4. Sneakers that were white, now brown
5. My Penn State Hat - couldnt part with it
6. Ants, Mosquitos, Spiders and possibly a roach - any of which could of snuck in my bags.
7. A new appreciation for NYC and America
8. The Importance of Language
9. Knowing that the smallest effort can make the largest effect in a childs life
10. An evolved spirit

Hope you have all enjoyed the blogs up until now - I look forward to bringing you along my continued journey along the South American Coast.

An Unexpected Friend, Jahud Said

Schedules in Brazil seem to change on a moments notice and I am given the information on Sunday when I wake up, that I will be leaving on a 2pm bus back to Manaus. As usual, I dont ask any questions and Im somewhat relieved. Manaus is sounding like America at this moment :) I pack my bags and find myself on my own for a few hours. I decide to take a walk down a beautiful path with overhanging trees that runs down the main strip of town. A little exercise and a little time-passing.

About six blocks along, I notice a Cyber Cafe. I cross the street and grab for the door - locked. I notice a boy - no more than 18 sitting on his bike and he seems to be waiting. My first thought is who is this bozo. I motion with my watch and speak ^A Che Ora^ then another motion at the Cafe. He says something and I figure he means noon. For a few weird minutes, we have a conversation where he speaks portuguese and I understand him generally with my responses as Si or Eh or even uh Huh. We understand each other until I get annoyed (often around here) since I have been there for 20 minutes past twelve.

I mention Aqua and point to a store. He waits - I buy - I return.

As If we have been friends for a long time - we hang together for another 10 minutes when he motions that he has a laptop in his backpack. I guess he trusts to show it to me. Its an ACER (I think thats cheap in the US). Why do I care that he has a laptop unless he can get internet on it. But why would he be waiting here if he could. He motions to a bench and has me sit down. Upon reving it up to a screen. He motions for me to type. Its a translation software program for english and portuguese.

It was one of the greatest feelings in 2 weeks. I CAN COMMUNICATE! I think he was as overjoyed as I was and we went back and forth for a half hour or so chatting about Obama, family, Itacoatiara, America, School and God. It was an phenomenal moment. After we realized no one was coming to open the Cyber Cafe - he translates through the computer that there is another one on the other block. I yell at him over the computer. ARE YOU NUTS - WHY DIDNT YOU MENTION THIS AN HOUR AGO! He laughs and we walk - I get an email or two out and now I have to go make my 2pm bus.

Outside the Cyber Cafe, he pulls his laptop out one more time.

His final words were ^Thank you for the time, I hope you will be my friend forever^

We exchanged emails as phone numbers are useless and I wave goodbye. I traverse the quiet dirty street alone with the sun beating from its highest peak - probably never to see Jahud Said ever again, but his spirit is with me as I made a close connection and a great experience that will live with me forever.

Its amazing how important language can be...

English, Nestor, Franciney and Favellaville

Im done complaining about my health as I am using advil to keep the swelling down. I will discuss it again if I end up in a hospital as for now, I will deal.

Saturday was uneventful until 2pm came around and we were scheduled for a boat ride. Not the way you think, when you are on vacation and you go down to a pier and book a tour. No, No, No. This is the third world. We randomly go down to a pier where a family lives out of a hut and negotiate for a boat the size of a canoe with a motor on the end of it. We tell him where to go and along the way we hope that nothing goes wrong as it is clear they dont have communication whatsoever, no radios, no phone service, just lifejackets and a cd player.

We make our way onto the river as my nerves quell and the picture taking bonanza occurs. There are so many amazonians living throughout the capillaries of the river. Take a left or a right and follow canals and you can bet you will hit a shack, a favella, or even a community with a school surrounded by water. It was a little concerning when we came upon a family with over 6 kids running around naked, but maybe thats the norm.

Another bout with the power of now came when we drove through a canal of trees to an open body of water that was serene and completely quiet from industrial life - only the sounds of nature as If I were listening to a pure moods medley. What a moment. I felt as if I was the only human in that location.

Eventually we find our way back to the main river and zip to the other end where the Amaggi Group has a full factory with Grain Elevators and Barges. This company is well known in the area as one of the last standing ones and connection to the outside world. They focus a lot on soybeans. Their massive ships and buoys beyond their complex was quite impressive - I wanted to know a bit more, but we were on a time schedule.





I was due to visit the St. Antonio Festival which is a yearly event in ITA that involves the church. Praying, singing, parading, family, food and fun. It was interesting to see the whole community come out for this event - but truly, what else do they have to do. Their focus is on food and shelter at all times, so the option of a free festival is extremely exciting. Another moment of how tall I am as I walk through the crowds as Andre the Giant.




My new friend English (yes thats his name) who has one leg and drives me around the festival on a motorcycle with no helmet happens to know a total of 5-10 English words. Lorenzo introduced me to him and then sent us on his way. Try explaining you want something to eat. Can I get some takeout please! I will even eat chinese food at this moment. Oh and RED MANGO would be great right now (for those of you who dont know, its better than Pinkberry).

After serious amounts of sign language, English and I motor our way from the Parade to a lunchonette where I order a burger and SKOL (second beer of the trip) I make English order the same. I can at least buy him some food since he is paying for the gas to run me around. Gas here is WAYYYYYYY cheap (1 dollar a gallon) and since everyone has a motorcycle - mileage is spectacular - and the city is about the size of a small town in Long Island -so getting around is less than a mile.

Some random friend of English - Nestor - arrives along with Franciney (the driver that took me to ITA at 120 mph) They want to take me out to the festival after parties, but no one speaks english - so I agree but have no idea what I am agreeing too. They indicate not to bring my camera as, I think it sounded like it might be dangerous so I leave it behind.

Onto Nestors motorcycle I hold on tight and spit out the flies and wipe my eyes as dust whips in my eyes the whole ride. We arrive at a Favella nightspot that has hundreds of people mulling outside. It seems these are the nightgoers that cant afford the 8 Reales (4 dollars) cover. We squeeze past them and enter past the bodyguards. Now im definitely in a no going back situation and I dont have my cell for emergency. Total trust in these guys. Turns out only Franciney goes in with me - I assume those other guys didnt have the 8 reales - no clue - never saw them again.
Franciney and I enter into - only way to describe it is a MASSIVE Beer Garden but with a huge concrete flooring set up for dancing and a Stage at the back where different bands play loud brazillian music (samba). Every hour the band changes and there is a side concrete section with a DJ and club music for others. One section to buy beer and people everywhere. Not prepared with my bug spray the biting emerges. So annoying.

Now understand this. An American dressed like Crocodile Dundee and a fat, tall, bald, goetee brazillian driver as my wingman. I dont think there was one person in that entire place who didnt see us. The looks got worse when we decided to try and dance. He was decent, I was not. The music was great, but I was getting tired at the hour came close to 2am. Not my usual and my body was making me know it. I indicate us to leave and Franciney understands. We waltz out into favellaville and are approached by motocabs (motorcycle cabs).

On one hand it was quite a fun time, with good band music jams and a new experience. On the other hand, I felt a sense of sorrow for the way of life and location.

What the heck happened to English and Nestor...

From Healthy Fruits to Rolaids and Imodium AD

A 530am wake up call - cold shower - no breakfast.

I notice a stench coming from the Priest that reminds me of the homeless in Cincinnati. I cant remember the last time he showered. Im worried about sitting next to him on the bus.

We arrive at the bus station, clearly I complained too much about the car ride the last time. These buses are huge, with massive wheels and ridiculous height. The shocks must be from jumbo jet planes because the 4 hour ride was as smooth as my skin (now that im on malaria medication - which by the way does wonders for your face)

The air conditioning was a nice plus and the seats go back like your in a small bed. I let the stench go as I turned on my Ipod. I must say, I havent really listened to music regularly in a while. I dont know if its because of the depression I have suffered over the years or just lack of interest, but wow! My brother was kind enough to load all his music onto my Ipod and what a lifesaver it has been. I have listened almost every night. If you havent been into music in a while - get back into it. Do whatever it takes to listen to a bit each day, maybe morning and night. It is phenomenal therapy for the soul that you rarely appreciate unless you havent had it for so long. Its only worthy if its music that truly comes from the spirit of the band or person singing. Pop moneymaking marketing scams excluded.

As Bob Marley and the newer band O.A.R. play throughout the ride - I whisk away into daydreams and then to sleep. Awakening at the final destination - we cab to my hotel on the river. Apparently the Amazon is experiencing amounts of rain it hasnt seen in over 40 years and they make break the record this month - so the river is overflowing on the roads at times and we cannot go directly into the jungle at this time to live. We will do day trips so we dont get caught in a bad situation.

So its RIO HOTEL AMAZONIAS - more like an extension of Lorenzos house with more mosquitos - the dangerous kind and a staff of 1. I check in - which means they give you a key and a towel the size of a napkin. The plus is a balcony that overlooks the river. The negative was when I peered into the shower to yell OH COME ON!!!

There was only one faucet. You cannot get a hot shower if you try!

Lorenzo and I decide to sit out on the porch of the hotel and chat for an hour or two. He is quite an interesting character. This man knows four languages. My biggest inquiry - why is he an American Citizen that was born in Italy and lives in Brazil.

We make our way over to the Seminary Compound where the Bishop of the second largest city in the Amazonia State resides. There is a nice large version of what we would call (those things outside that people get married under) - I sit in a rocking chair under it as I wait for the Bishop to arrive. I find myself closing my eyes but not falling asleep. My body becomes relaxed, my nostrils are totally clear and I do not have any headaches. I think Im in a state of conciousness as I notice the sounds of the birds and crickets and who knows what in the jungle surrounding us.

Arisen by Lorenzo and standing in front of me the Bishop of ITACOATIARA. Hes dressed like a bible salesmen with a big silver cross around his neck - something out of a rap video - and hes smoking! By the way, Lorenzo takes down a few beers here and there - is this normal? Smoking and beers under God? Anyway, he seems like a very nice man - doesnt speak english so you know how that goes. After our meeting we proceed to a dinner ...

They only drive stick in the entire country of Brazil - so the Bishops Nissan Truck - looks like a Pathfinder but called something else - we go to the first restaurant where I can order off a menu! But I guess its customary for the Bishop to do the ordering and he orders two fish dishes, one is a soup, some rice, a random yellow grain I think they call Farina over here - they put this on everything - tastes terrible! Im a bit disappointed as fish isnt my thing and I never heard of either of them. 2 40s of beer into the conversation of Italian that I pick up on here and there, the fish comes out. The soup one has bones so I dont bother and the other one was phenomenal so I go to town on it. The grainy yellow farina is prepared differently this time and I like it. I decide to add hot sauce.

After a solid meal for once, they drive me back to the hotel at about 10pm and I retire to bed. This morning, I woke up with an unusual feeling. Kind of like the combination of heartburn, indigestion and a lump stuck in your esophagus. Lorenzo thinks its a reaction to the Hot Sauce as it always gives problems to Gringos - well thanks for the heads up, you saw me pouring it all over the Farina! I think something is stuck that needs to pass, but anyway, I do my morning ritual of diarrhea and try to drink a coke - random fridge in room.

The feeling is quite uncomfortable as I sit here writing this in the Bishops office - I snuck in while Lorenzo and him are in a meeting. Is this a sin...

I hope I get over this feeling in between my breasts - because I do not want to see what the hospital looks like in ITACOATIARA let alone MANAUS which is a 4 hour drive. I have to make it to RIO probably to get any decent care. Hopefully it will pass. I tried Rolaids - nada. Next will be Imodium.

Somebody~s coming...