If you ever go to Ushuaia, Argentina, the most southern city at the tip of of South America, make sure you have a window seat. Its the time you will drop your jaw. In my case, I could taste the condensation on my mini glass, I was so glued to the view. Its like a free helicoptor tour before you ever set foot.
The pilot notifies us of our 6 degree celsius temperature - which doesnt faze me - I dont even have a hat or gloves packed. The annoying heat sensor camera greets me in this bodunk airport. Once I am cleared of the swine flu, I sway towards the front of the turnstile looking for my bag - of course as in all nowhere towns - 0nly one baggage depot.
I break out my latin american spanish pocket book and start to practice lines for the taxi. I have a feeling english will be quite a luxury in this location. I fail with the pronounciation and show him what I had written down for my hostel. He immediately comprehends - and off we go! Opening the window to breath in that fresh mountain air, I decide not to take out the camera just yet and enjoy for myself. The snowfilled mountains and incredible lakes flowing into channels is a site unto itself. Pictures are not going to do this place justice.
I check in with my Spanglish and immediately start planning. The receptionist recommends I get in a cab immediately and head up to the Martial Glacier. It is 2pm and the Glaciar park closes at 5pm. Lets get this done. Cab indicates I should turn around and look out the back glass as he ascends in zigzags up the muddy roads. Behind me is the full Andes mountain horizon with the Beagle Channel flowing in front of them.
20 pesos / 5 dollars to the top and I notice a ski mountain with tons of tweens and snowboards. Is this it? No clue. As I traverse the parking lot, I notice a random little tea house tucked into the mountainside below.
Im starving - a bit of free time - why not? Along the wooden bridges, I open the small door to the tea house as the bells hanging start ringing. The cottage is surrounding by windows showing the still vista I saw from the cab. Awesome. Tea - Sandwich and an english speaking waitress make for a terrific lunch. Now where is this glacier?
I trek up to the ticket office - spanglish my way to the purchase of a chairlift ticket to the base of the glacier. Ticket 30 pesos - 7 dollars. The lift is a bit cold with the wind - snapping pictures, Im expecting a bit of a trek after the lift to the actual base of the glacier. First time I have ever jumped off a lift without skis - interesting. I follow the trail for trekkers through the trees, blazing the ice and snow as I climb. Im the only one doing this which makes it exciting and chilling at the same time. Im still good on time, but I check my watch so I can time how long it will be to get back. That lift stops at 430pm. Im wearing sneakers since I rushed out of the hostel - who knew I would be trekking? The ice is dangerous but the glacier is up ahead.
I think the guy at the ticket office was saying it will look like a mountain as the glacier is under the snow and is only visible in the summer. No wonder why I am the only one doing this trek. I reach the clearing and the wind takes a strong gust and rips it in my direction. I grab onto a tree to hold myself in place. Not easy. The clearing has no protection and the massive mountain glacier is encapsulating. I take out my camera to shoot a video. As I push record, the wind whips another insane gust and I duck low to hold my position. The video is awesome. (on youtube) I stand firm and switch my breath between the view below of the andes and the channel - then back to the mountain/glacier and back again. Its an awesome moment.
A few prayers later, I decide to take the journey back as darkness looms and so does that chair lift deadline. This location by the way has less sunlight since it is only 5 hours by boat from Antartica - that means the sun doesnt even rise here until 10am. Great for the night owls.
Back at the hostel, I realize the little sleep, and take a long nap til about 83opm. Since restaurants dont open in argentina til then, it was fine. I taxi to the downtown. Nice! Kinda like a park city, Utah. Less restaurants, less bars, less stores but nice. I stroll the streets, pop in to a few local bars - dont know anyone - dont know spanish - didnt stick around. The strolling was cool. I stumble upon a meat place. The only other option here is a fish place. After a grand meal, I walk around the closed shops breathing in the phenomenal air. I advance on a street corner and notice to the right, that the entire street has become a snowboarding park. They built a full one on an actual street - totally odd. And next to it is an Irish pub - packed!
After taking pictures, I decide to get in the taxi back to my hostel so I can write my blog and get to bed - huge day tomorrow...
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